Geometric patterns and shapes have never been more so apparent in film than in those directed by Busby Berkeley.
Berkeley's 1920/30's Hollywood musicals really capture the audiences attention with their innovative kaleidoscope viewing. Placing the viewer within the stage the audience are propelled into unique and unusual points of view.
Although Berkeley is celebrated today, I would like to question his repetitive use of the female figure in the majority of his choreographed work. Maybe it was just the way society was at the time, but if Berkeley could challenge ideas of viewing then why could he not challenge the norms of sexuality in his films?
What is displayed before us is a display of the female body, it is passive, sexualized and glamorized for the audience. Yet the male roles in the films all seem to hold a sense of power over the female dancers, and so the male audience are given permission to hold gaze of the women as objects.
Kylie Minogue takes significant influences from the work of Berkeley in her new video for the track 'The One'. As can be seen, the kaleidoscope effect Berkeley introduced to our screens in the 1920's is now transferred into the contemporary realm by music video director Ben Id.
In contrast to Berkeley, Ben Id adapts the male body to the formation of shapes within the background of this video. Perhaps this shows just how much times have changed, or maybe we are just seeing a gender role reversal before us. Men are becoming feminised, they are now the object of the gaze, whilst women are becoming masculinised through their acquisition of power and equality over the past fifty years.
Tuesday 19 August 2008
Monday 18 August 2008
Glam Goth Meets Romance
Autumn/Winter 2008 is all about the goth-yes, again.
Last year's play on goth was a very sexual, mannish provocateur image, bow ties, studs contrasted with latex dominated the catwalk. Yet this year the goth becomes a mythical romantic figure, lending itself to the romance and floral influences of the Spring/Summer 2008 collections.
Lace is the fabric of this season, as seen in collections from Emma Cook, Paul and Joe, and Prada, lace really captures this essence of the romantic vision within the dark Gothic imagery.
Emma Cook's punk-goth vibe, as seen in the image above, really catches the audiences imaginations. Lace, usually associated with granny's net curtains and best table cloth, is used and transformed into something unimaginable, a punk goth princess- black eye liner, doc martin's n'all. The result is a powerful, yet very sexy image of a woman, dominating, yet revealing together with a celebration of the use of fabric in such a diverse and exciting fashion.
Luella's A/W 08 collection, which is strongly influenced by the folk law witches of Southern England, really sets the scene for a mythical adventure into the dark and mysterious world of this season's trends.
The models of Luella's runway display voluminous, crimped hair with glimpses of ribbons tangled within bunches envisaging an unmade image of wildness with a cute twist. The use of ribbon compliments the clothing brought forward by Luella which gives us that romantic gentle twist on the Gothic image, yet I can't help but think of Morris Dancers and Russian Dolls rather than witches!
Although the traditional Halloween-esk version of the witches hat is hidden from our gaze in this collection, the bobble hat, last seen in the early 90's along with balaclavas, makes a come back this year, giving us a pixie-like silhouette which was initially absent from the pagen image. The bobble hat super storm has zoomed straight into high street stores with that quirky folk law edge Luella loves to promote, ensuring this piece as a must-have for this season.
Last year's play on goth was a very sexual, mannish provocateur image, bow ties, studs contrasted with latex dominated the catwalk. Yet this year the goth becomes a mythical romantic figure, lending itself to the romance and floral influences of the Spring/Summer 2008 collections.
Lace is the fabric of this season, as seen in collections from Emma Cook, Paul and Joe, and Prada, lace really captures this essence of the romantic vision within the dark Gothic imagery.
Emma Cook's punk-goth vibe, as seen in the image above, really catches the audiences imaginations. Lace, usually associated with granny's net curtains and best table cloth, is used and transformed into something unimaginable, a punk goth princess- black eye liner, doc martin's n'all. The result is a powerful, yet very sexy image of a woman, dominating, yet revealing together with a celebration of the use of fabric in such a diverse and exciting fashion.
Luella's A/W 08 collection, which is strongly influenced by the folk law witches of Southern England, really sets the scene for a mythical adventure into the dark and mysterious world of this season's trends.
The models of Luella's runway display voluminous, crimped hair with glimpses of ribbons tangled within bunches envisaging an unmade image of wildness with a cute twist. The use of ribbon compliments the clothing brought forward by Luella which gives us that romantic gentle twist on the Gothic image, yet I can't help but think of Morris Dancers and Russian Dolls rather than witches!
Although the traditional Halloween-esk version of the witches hat is hidden from our gaze in this collection, the bobble hat, last seen in the early 90's along with balaclavas, makes a come back this year, giving us a pixie-like silhouette which was initially absent from the pagen image. The bobble hat super storm has zoomed straight into high street stores with that quirky folk law edge Luella loves to promote, ensuring this piece as a must-have for this season.
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